In this post we’re going to look at installing Burton ReFlex bindings on snowboards that use the channel system for mounting.
This is going to assume that you already have Burton Re:Flex bindings and a board with a channel system, but if you’re looking at Burton bindings but still deciding whether to get Re:Flex or EST (which, just quickly can’t be mounted on non-Burton boards), check out the link below.
>>Should I Get Re:Flex or EST Burton Bindings
How To Install Burton ReFlex Bindings on a Channel Mounting System
OK, so if you have Burton Re:Flex bindings for a board with the channel system, here’s how to install them, step by step.
What You’ll Need
- Channel discs & screws (Burton re:flex bindings come with both “4 x 4” discs and “Channel Discs”, you’ll need the Channel discs – and, importantly, also the channel screws which are a little different to the 4 x 4 screws).
- Note: Channel Screws (M6 13mm) are usually painted black and are noticeably shorter, using the 4 x 4 screws (M6 16mm) could damage your board, so make sure you have the right screws. There are only 4 channel screws – 2 per binding.
- Channel plugs x 2
- Channel Inserts (aka T Bolts) x 4
- A #3 Phillips head screwdriver
- Tape Measure
- A rag or paper towels
- Your snowboard boots
For the images below I am using my Burton Name Dropper 2015 with Burton Malavita Re:Flex 2017 bindings, size M.
Step 1: Prepare the binding surface
I like to give the surface of my boards a good clean before I put bindings on them. Often after you’ve taken off your bindings it’s pretty dirty under there.
If you’re installing on a new board, then it’s not as necessary.
I usually just clean with a damp paper towel and then make sure that the surface is properly dry using a dry paper towel and then letting it sit for a little while to air dry.
If you’re wanting to use any kind of chemical cleaner I would be very careful in the one that you use and consult with the snowboard manufacturer as to which cleaner will be OK for their top sheet. You don’t want to end up with a messed-up top-sheet. If you want to play it safe, as I do, just stick to water and elbow grease!
Step 2: Make Sure you are Setting Up in Your Correct Stance
Are you goofy or regular?
Make sure that the correct binding is going to be at the front of the board and the correct binding at the back of the board.
If you’re not sure about what your stance is yet or if you aren’t sure how to tell which is the front (nose/tip) and the back (tail), check out the links below.
>>How to Tell if you’re goofy or Regular
>>How to Tell the Nose from the Tail of a Snowboard
Another part of your stance is going to be your stance width. This is where the tape measure becomes a valuable tool.
If you’re not sure about your stance width, you can either just go with the reference stance on the board or check out the next link. If you don’t know your preferred stance width yet it’s a good idea to experiment a little bit anyway – so starting with reference stance and experimenting from there is a good idea.
The next link provides a few things about stance setup, including stance width.
Finally, in terms of your stance, you’ll need to choose binding angles. If you already know your preferred binding angles, then you’re good to go. If not, then check out the link below to help you choose the best angles. Again, it’s a good idea to experiment with this to get the best setup – but you do need to choose a good place to start.
>>What Binding Angles Should I Use
Step 3: Lift Up the Footbed
Lift up the footbed on the bindings to expose the disc hole.
The footbed might be a little tricky to lift up when you first buy the bindings, in which case you might find it easier to lift them up using a flathead screwdriver. They do loosen over time and become easier to take on and off (though it you don’t adjust your bindings that often it might not be the case).
I like to use the toe strap to hold the footbed back so that it doesn’t get in the way.
Step 4: Adjust the Gas Pedals
You can’t adjust the gas pedals once the bindings are screwed in, so it pays to do it now. Set up your boots in your bindings and adjust the gas pedal appropriately to fit the contour of your boot.
These can feel like they’re not going to move at first. They take a little bit of a combination of force and finesse. Again, these get looser over time when you remove and put them on a lot, but if you’re not going to be doing that they’ll likely stay quite stiff.
Step 5: Remove the Channel Plugs
There should be channel plugs in your board. Remove these so you can insert the T Bolts (aka channel inserts). I find I can usually remove these with my hands but if you’re having trouble you can use the screwdriver to lever them off.
Step 6: Insert the Channel Inserts
With the flat piece of the insert facing down, slide the channel inserts into place, then replace the channel plugs.
Step 7: Place the Disc At Your Binding Angles
Place the discs in the bindings at the binding angles you have chosen. Line up the arrow on the bindings baseplate with the angle you have chosen. In the case of the image below it’s at 15 degrees.
You can adjust your angles in 3 degree increments.
Step 7: Line Up The Holes in the disc with the channel inserts.
Line up the channel inserts (aka T Bolts) with the holes on the disc. There are 3 hole options here and which ones you choose will depend on which holes work best for centering your boots on the board. When it comes time to screw the bindings in, remember to loosely screw them at first. Then you’ll be able to check your boot centering before tightening them properly. It may be the case that you have to change holes. Also, to adjust stance width they can only be loosely tightened anyway (see below).
You should be able to sort of click them in place.
Step 8: Insert Screws
Insert the channel screws in the holes you have chosen.
Just loosely tighten them at this stage, so that you can adjust stance width and check boot centering. This is a good time to check boot centering to make sure that’s right before adjusting the stance width.
Step 9: Check Boot Centering
Place your boots in the bindings and tighten the ankles strap. If you don’t tighten the ankle strap your boots may not be pulled back into the highback of the binding, so they won’t show a true position of your boot whilst riding.
It may be the case that you need to go back in to adjust the boot centering, by using one of the other hole options.
Step 10: Adjust Stance Width
You can now slide your bindings up and down the channel to choose your stance width. If you’re going with reference stance, simply line up the little reference triangle (see image below) with the center of the binding.
If you are going with a different stance, it’s time to get out your tape measure and measure up your stance. Still remember to make sure you have the right setback stance according to your board. So, if you are going wider, then start at reference and move each binding equal distance wider than the reference.
Step 11: Tighten up Properly
Tighten the screws properly once everything checks out and then replace the footbeds. You’re almost ready to go.
There are other adjustments you can make with Burton Re:Flex bindings but all of these can be made with the bindings mounted on the board.
- ANKLE STRAPS: Adjust your ankle straps so that they tighten centered on your boot. This is done by flipping up the tab on the ankle strap screw and loosening then sliding the strap into the desired position. You don’t need a tool for this.
- TOES STRAPS: Following the same process make sure your toe strap is centered over your boot. Burton toe straps are only designed to be worn over the toe cap of the boot, not over the top of the boot.
- HIGHBACK LEAN: Use the tool-less adjuster on the back of the highback to adjust the highback lean. Rotate clockwise to increase the amount of forward lean and anti-clockwise to reduce the amount of forward lean
- HIGBACK ROTATION: Using the screws that hold the highback in place (on the side of the baseplate, just under the ankle strap position screws) you can adjust the rotation of the highback, if you like to have your highbacks lineup with the edge of your board. You will need your phillips head screwdriver for this
- ANKLE STRAP POSITION: As well as adjusting the length of the ankle strap you can also adjust the position. Most Burton bindings give you either 2 or 3 ankle strap positions. Use the higher positions for more support and the lower positions for a looser, more surfy feel.
- TOE STRAP POSITION: You can also choose between two different toe strap positions
You can also check out Burton’s video on installing Re:Flex bindings on a channel board.
There’s less detail here but it might help to get a moving visual look at it (I haven’t had time to make a video yet, though I might at some stage. At which point I will add it in here).
Over To You
And that’s basically everything you need for installing and setting up your Burton Re:Flex bindings on a Channel board. But if there’s anything I’ve missed please feel free to let me know by leaving a comment in the comments section below.
Dan D says
Really helpful article. This might seem like a dumb question, and I have searched the entire site – and didn’t see it addressed specifically. Thanks to this website I’ve invested in my own snowboard setup for this season. And these articles and videos on setup for my gear (bought an Burton Instigator Purepop with Burton Flex bindings) will make the setup pretty straight forward. I’ve also reviewed the articles on maintenance and waxing – and plan to make some purchases to accomplish those tasks. What isn’t clear to me – with a brand new board: is it as simple as setting up the bindings and heading to the mountain? no tuning prior? No detuning any edges, etc? I’ve only rented boards in the past and just headed up to the mountains. Thanks for this incredible resource for NOOBIES!
Thanks for your message.
Typically you can just set up your bindings and head up the mountain with your new board. But you can give it a fresh wax if you want to. But it’s not completely necessary or anything. More details here.
In terms of detuning, you can also do this if you want to, but it’s also not necessary. If you find after riding it that the contact points are feeling more catchy than you’d like them, then you could have the contact points detuned. But there’s no standard practice of detuning by default. It’s certainly an option if you feel it needs it, but I would ride the board first before making that call.
And you shouldn’t need any edge sharpening or base grind or anything like that on a brand new board, so you don’t have to worry about any of that for a while.
Hope this helps