Placement of your bindings on your board is really important so in this post I’ll show you how to put bindings on a snowboard.
Why Does it Matter?
There are a few main reasons why the placement of your bindings matters.
- You want to have your correct foot at the front of the board, depending on whether you ride regular or goofy
- You want to have your bindings centered width ways so that there is even overhang of your boots on both the toe and heel side – if there is too much overhang on one side then it could cause dragging and if your boot is too far away from an edge then it will be hard work to apply pressure to that edge for turns.
- You want to have them set up so you have the right stance width
- You want to have them set up so that they reflect the setback that the board was designed for
How to go about setting them up
Follow these guidelines and you should have your bindings set up in the best position to get the best performance out of your snowboard.
Regular/Goofy
If you’re not already sure if you are regular or goofy this is the first thing you will need to decide before installing your bindings. Check out the link below for some handy techniques for deciding if you’re not sure yet.
Once you know which you are you can set up your front foot in the right place.
If you ride regular then your left binding should be placed at the nose end of the board.
If you ride goofy then your right binding should be placed at the nose end of the board.
If you aren’t sure which end of the board is the nose end, check out the post below.
Binding Angles
The next thing you need to work out is what your binding angles are going to be. If you already know your preference then you can move on to setting up your angles.
If you aren’t sure what binding angles you want to ride then check out the link below to see which angles are best for you. Which binding angles you start with will depend on your ability level and your style of riding.
Setting up your angles
Binding discs go up in increments of 3. Use the angle indicators on the discs or base plate to get your angles spot on.
The binding disc lifts out of the baseplate and you simply rotate it until the arrow on the base plate is pointing at the angle that you want.
Some discs have the angle markings on the disc and some have the markings on the baseplate and have the arrow on the disc (as per image below).
Stance Width
Your stance width is usually roughly slightly wider than shoulder width. But what’s that?! If you aren’t sure of your stance width then check out the link below to work it out.
Once you know your stance width take a measurement to see which binding holes you will be using. For a wider than normal stance you’ll be using the holes closer to the nose and tail and for a narrower stance you’ll be using the holes that the closest to the center of the board.
It’s a good idea to only lightly tighten the screws initially and then you can measure again once the bindings are where you think you want them. Your measurement should be from center of binding to center of binding.
For example if your stance width is 580mm then it should be 580mm between the center of the front binding to the center of the back binding.
Centering your Bindings
This is possibly the most important setup factor and one that many people miss when they’re putting on their bindings.
Place your bindings on the board where you think they should go then place your boots in your bindings.
Move the bindings up and down the board width-ways so that the overhang of your boots are even on both toe and heel edge.
If either your heels or toes are too far from the edge then it will be difficult to apply pressure to the edges. If either you heels or toes are overhanging too much then you risk dragging a boot in the snow.
Binding discs are able to be used two or more different ways up, so if you can’t center them properly one way up then you can spin them around and use them the other way up. There are typically angle indicators all the way around the disc.
Make sure they are Tightly Screwed in
To attach your bindings you will need a phillips head screwdriver.
Once you have your bindings exactly where you want them it’s time to screw them in. Make sure you have all the screws tightly fastened. You don’t want your bindings to come loose while you’re riding.
I’ve had this happen a couple of times and it’s a pain to have to stop in the middle of your day to tighten your bindings. I’ve only ever had this happen with binding screws that don’t have washers. So if your screws don’t have washers then I recommend getting washers or new screws that have washers.
Thanks for reading
Now you’re ready to go with your new bindings!
I hope this post will help to get your bindings set up as they should be. When I bought my first pair of bindings years ago I set them up so my boots weren’t centered (back from the toe edge with lots of overhang on heel edge) and I always wondered why I found it harder to do a toe edge turn.
It made a massive difference once I got them set up properly.
Adam says
Hey Nate, I have my front binding set to 15 degrees and my back binding set to 0 degrees. I’ve centered my boots over my board so that the front boot has exactly 15mm of overhang on each side but the rear boot has 21mm heel overhang and 16mm toe overhang. Both the bindings are set to the same centering position. Since the backfoot angle is zero it has more heel overhang than the front. Should I move the rear binding forward a couple of mm to center the heel/toe overhang like the front or is it better to keep both bindings at the same centering position?
Nate says
Hi Adam
Thanks for your message. Ideally I would move it forward a couple of mm, if you can, to better center that heel/toe overhang. However, with the difference that you have, at just 5mm different, it wouldn’t be a massive difference to leave it where it is.
Jeff says
Hi Nate,
Question for you–I have a board with a 2 X 4 hole set up. I’m wondering if it’s “ok” or advised if I choose the back binding set up at the back reference point and the front binding set up 2 holes back toward the tail from the front reference point (that’s 4cm back from the front reference point)? This is the best feeling for my natural width and I like to have a bit longer tip as i mostly ride in one direction. I’m just wondering if by doing this (front foot set back only) if I loose board performance, effective edge, control or stability? Can I mix up these placement holes or it is always advised to place the bindings on the same hole number front and back? Hope that makes sense!
Thanks!
Nate says
Hi Jeff
Thanks for your message.
I don’t see any harm in trying this. If it feels good, then I don’t think you’d be affecting anything in a big way in terms of the boards performance/feel. You would be increasing the setback (or adding setback if you’re on a twin), but IMO you’re OK to do it, if you want to both increase setback and narrow your stance width. I probably wouldn’t do it to a greater degree than what you’re doing it – i.e. I’d be more hesitant if you were wanting to move one binding 6cm and the other not at all, but I would be comfortable with 4cm.
Hope this helps with your decision
Joe says
Hey, this is my first time putting a snowboard together. I was wondering what angle your high backs should be at? Thank you.
Nate says
Hi Joe
Thanks for your message.
It depends really. The most important thing is what you feel the best with, so it’s a good idea to experiment. And with most bindings these days high back lean is tool-less so it’s pretty easy to experiment.
Some things to consider:
– A lot of high back lean tends to help with better response – and helps to force you into a more knees bent stance. Stops you from getting lazy and standing too upright. It’s also more likely to cause calf-bite and can be less comfortable. Mostly used for more freeride, hard carving etc
– Having zero lean on the high back is the most comfortable, IMO, but it does mean you can get lazy and stand up too straight. Zero lean is pretty typical if you’re doing a lot of freestyle riding, but that doesn’t mean you can’t ride freestyle with a bit of lean or that you can’t carve and charge the mountain with zero lean, but that’s what’s typical.
But yeah I would experiment to see what you like
Hope this helps