This post is going to explain how to install Burton ReFlex bindings on a snowboard with a 2 x 4 insert pattern.
This is going to assume that you already have Burton Re:Flex bindings and a board with a 2 x 4 mounting pattern, but if you’re looking at Burton bindings but still deciding whether to get Re:Flex or EST (which, just quickly can’t be mounted on non-Burton boards), check out the link below.
>>Should I Get Re:Flex or EST Burton Bindings
How To Install Burton ReFlex Bindings on a 2 x 4 Mounting System
OK, so if you have Burton Re:Flex bindings for a board with a 2 x 4 mounting system, here’s how to install them.
What You’ll Need
- 4 x 4 discs & screws (Burton re:flex bindings come with both “4 x 4” discs and “Channel Discs”, you’ll need the 4 x 4 discs). I know this is confusing when we are mounting to a 2 x 4 board, but this is what Burton decided to call these discs. Note also that Burton’s channel screws are different, so make sure you select the correct screws
- A #3 Phillips head screwdriver
- Tape Measure
- A rag or paper towels
- Your snowboard boots
For the images below I am using my old Flow Era 2013 with Burton Malavita Re:Flex 2017 bindings, size M.
Step 1: Prepare the binding surface
I like to give the surface of my boards a good clean before I put bindings on them. Often after you’ve taken off your bindings it’s pretty dirty under there.
If you’re installing on a new board, then it’s not as necessary.
I usually just clean with a damp paper towel and then make sure that the surface is properly dry using a dry paper towel and then letting it sit for a little while to air dry.
If you’re wanting to use any kind of chemical cleaner I would be very careful in the one that you use and consult with the snowboard manufacturer as to which cleaner will be OK for their top sheet. You don’t want to end up with a messed-up top-sheet. If you want to play it safe, as I do, just stick to water and elbow grease!
Step 2: Make Sure you are Setting Up in Your Correct Stance
Are you goofy or regular?
Make sure that the correct binding is going to be at the front of the board and the correct binding at the back of the board.
If you’re not sure about what your stance is yet or if you aren’t sure how to tell which is the front (nose/tip) and the back (tail), check out the links below.
>>How to Tell if you’re goofy or Regular
>>How to Tell the Nose from the Tail of a Snowboard
Another part of your stance is going to be your stance width. This is where the tape measure becomes a valuable tool.
If you’re not sure about your stance width, you can either just go with the reference stance on the board or check out the next link. If you don’t know your preferred stance width yet it’s a good idea to experiment a little bit anyway – so starting with reference stance and experimenting from there is a good idea.
The next link provides a few things about stance setup, including stance width.
Finally, in terms of your stance, you’ll need to choose binding angles. If you already know your preferred binding angles, then you’re good to go. If not, then check out the link below to help you choose the best angles. Again, it’s a good idea to experiment with this to get the best setup – but you do need to choose a good place to start.
>>What Binding Angles Should I Use
Step 3: Lift Up the Footbed
Lift up the footbed on the bindings to expose the disc hole.
The footbed might be a little tricky to lift up when you first buy the bindings, in which case you might find it easier to lift them up using a flathead screwdriver. They do loosen over time and become easier to take on and off (though it you don’t adjust your bindings that often it might not be the case).
I like to use the toe strap to hold the footbed back so that it doesn’t get in the way.
Step 4: Adjust the Gas Pedals
You can’t adjust the gas pedals once the bindings are screwed in, so it pays to do it now. Set up your boots in your bindings and adjust the gas pedal appropriately to fit the contour of your boot.
These can feel like they’re not going to move at first. They take a little bit of a combination of force and finesse. Again, these get looser over time when you remove and put them on a lot, but if you’re not going to be doing that they’ll likely stay quite stiff.
Step 5: Place the bindings over the Holes
Place the bindings on the snowboard, without disc, over the holes you have chosen for your particular stance.
Step 6: Place the Disc At Your Binding Angles
Place the disc in the bindings of the first binding you are mounting at the binding angles you have chosen. Line up the arrow on the bindings baseplate with the angle you have chosen. In the case of the image below it’s at 18 degrees.
You can adjust your angles in 3 degree increments.
Step 7: Choose the Holes on the Disc
Depending on your boot and your boards width, you might want to line up with the center holes or the holes that are closest to the toe edge or the holes that are closest to the heel edge. This will depend on which holes best center your boots toe and heel overhang.
Step 8: Insert Screws
Insert the 4 screws into the 4 hole locations you have chosen for your stance width and boot centering. Loosely tighten each screw one at a time, so that the binding is secure but only loosely tightened.
Step 9: Check Stance Width
I find it’s a good idea to double check your stance width now, by remeasuring to make sure. Close the footbeds and measure from the center of one binding to the center of the other.
Step 10: Check Boot Centering
It’s also worth checking your boot centering at this stage. Place your boots in the bindings and tighten the ankles strap. If you don’t tighten the ankle strap your boots may not be pulled back into the highback of the binding, so they won’t show a true position of your boot whilst riding.
It may be the case that you need to go back in to adjust the boot centering, gas pedal or stance width position. But it’s better to make sure it’s right now than after you’ve tighten the screws completely.
As you can see with the image above and the image below one boot might be well centered with a certain setup but won’t necessarily be so for a different boot.
Step 11: Tighten up Properly
Tighten the screws properly once everything checks out and then replace the footbeds. You’re almost ready to go.
There are other adjustments you can make with Burton Re:Flex bindings but all of these can be made with the bindings mounted on the board.
- ANKLE STRAPS: Adjust your ankle straps so that they tighten centered on your boot. This is done by flipping up the tab on the ankle strap screw and loosening then sliding the strap into the desired position. You don’t need a tool for this.
- TOES STRAPS: Following the same process make sure your toe strap is centered over your boot. Burton toe straps are only designed to be worn over the toe cap of the boot, not over the top of the boot.
- HIGHBACK LEAN: Use the tool-less adjuster on the back of the highback to adjust the highback lean. Rotate clockwise to increase the amount of forward lean and anti-clockwise to reduce the amount of forward lean
- HIGBACK ROTATION: Using the screws that hold the highback in place (on the side of the baseplate, just under the ankle strap position screws) you can adjust the rotation of the highback, if you like to have your highbacks lineup with the edge of your board. You will need your phillips head screwdriver for this
- ANKLE STRAP POSITION: As well as adjusting the length of the ankle strap you can also adjust the position. Most Burton bindings give you either 2 or 3 ankle strap positions. Use the higher positions for more support and the lower positions for a looser, more surfy feel.
- TOE STRAP POSITION: You can also choose between two different toe strap positions
You can also check out Burton’s video on installing Re:Flex bindings on a 2 x 4 board. Note that they’ve called it setting up on a 4 x 4, but they are using a 2 x 4 board. So, it’s just the way they’ve named it.
There’s less detail here but it might help to get a moving visual look at it (I haven’t had time to make a video yet, though I might at some stage. At which point I will add it in here).
Over To You
And that’s basically everything you need to install and setup your Burton Re:Flex bindings on a 2 x 4 board. But if there’s anything I’ve missed please feel free to let me know by leaving a comment in the comments section below.
John Vanarsdol says
Have a old par of burton 4×4 step in binding .boots and two metal clips on the bottom of the boots.Wonder if I can us them on a newer board? The board is a older burton and has 4 hole patterns .
Thanks for your message.
I don’t have any experience with the old Step In bindings, but I imagine they would have made them compatible with standard 4 x 2 insert packs. But no guarantees – I’ve never used a pair of them. Best bet is probably to contact Burton.
DAVID JUSTIN WRIGHT says
Nate, it doesn’t look like any of the pictures with the boot in the binding has the toe strap on correctly. These are supposed to go over the toe.
You’re correct, it is supposed to go over the toe (as noted in “Other Adjustments: 2. Toe Straps”. The images have the toe straps in that position to illustrate boot centering in the bindings. The toe straps are lifting up out of the way, to more clearly see where the toe of the boots are sitting in relation to to the edge of the board and the edge of the binding. But I can definitely see how this could be confused if just browsing through the pics – maybe I will add captions to the images to make them more clear. Thanks for pointing this out.
Recently bought the typo and genesis after your advice on another thread, and now setting it all up.
The typo has a 5mm set back, will this happen with what ever stance width I choose? As in, if I use the holes furthest to the nose and tail for the widest stance, will there still be a set back? I’m a bit confused with the combination of set back and stance width!
Thanks for you advice, can’t wait to get out there this weekend.
Thanks for your message.
So long as each binding moves the same distance from reference stance, you will maintain the setback of the board. E.g. if you move the front binding 20mm (i.e. 1 set of holes) towards the nose and the back binding 20mm towards the tail, you would have a stance width 40mm wider than the reference stance, but you would still have a 5mm setback.
However, if you were to, for example, move the back binding 40mm towards the tail and the front binding only 20mm towards the nose, then you would be increasing your setback because you’ve moved the back binding further back.
Similarly if you moved the front binding towards the middle of the board 20mm and left the back binding where it is (which would give you a narrower stance), you’d be increasing the setback.
Also if you were to move the back binding 20mm towards the tail and the front binding towards the middle, you’d be increasing your setback.
If you were to move both bindings 20mm towards the middle, then you would maintain the 5mm setback of the board (this time with a stance that’s narrower by 40mm).
Note that you don’t want to be “set forward” on the effective edge of the board, so moving the front binding towards the nose without moving the back binding is a no-go, similarly moving the back binding towards the middle without moving the front binding would be a no-go.
Hope this clears it up for you
Thank you Nate, this did make sense and helped me out.
I have used the reference stance for my first time out and it felt great.
I am going to be riding everyday next week so I think I might have a play around with the stance width and angles as that will enable me to do a true comparison, riding at the same resort each day.
Thanks again for all the advice, it is appreciated greatly – I am thoroughly enjoying the board and bindings you recommended.
You’re very welcome Simon and thanks for the update and great to hear you’re enjoying the Typo/Genesis setup. Never a bad idea to play around with the stance, but awesome that it feels good as is, you can always return to that if it turns out to be the best.